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Review: Corazon exits Fullerton, resurfaces in Brea

Critic Brad A. Johnson says this Mexican restaurant has a powerful secret weapon, and like most secret weapons it’s the one thing you might least expect.

Chicken-filled taquitos at Corazon in Brea (Photo by Brad A. Johnson, Orange County Register/SCNG)
Chicken-filled taquitos at Corazon in Brea (Photo by Brad A. Johnson, Orange County Register/SCNG)
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Start with the horchata. It will likely be the best horchata you ever drink. 

That’s something I never imagined I would write. But the housemade horchata at Corazon in Brea is seriously in a league of its own, splashed with vanilla and a heavy swirl of cinnamon syrup. It’s a work of art. 

  • Housemade horchata at Corazon in Brea (Photo by Brad A....

    Housemade horchata at Corazon in Brea (Photo by Brad A. Johnson, Orange County Register/SCNG)

  • Carne asada tacos at Corazon in Brea (Photo by Brad...

    Carne asada tacos at Corazon in Brea (Photo by Brad A. Johnson, Orange County Register/SCNG)

  • Ceviche at Corazon in Brea (Photo by Brad A. Johnson,...

    Ceviche at Corazon in Brea (Photo by Brad A. Johnson, Orange County Register/SCNG)

  • Corazon restaurant in Brea (Photo by Brad A. Johnson, Orange...

    Corazon restaurant in Brea (Photo by Brad A. Johnson, Orange County Register/SCNG)

  • Chicken mole enchiladas at Corazon in Brea (Photo by Brad...

    Chicken mole enchiladas at Corazon in Brea (Photo by Brad A. Johnson, Orange County Register/SCNG)

  • Sweet corn tamale at Corazon in Brea (Photo by Brad...

    Sweet corn tamale at Corazon in Brea (Photo by Brad A. Johnson, Orange County Register/SCNG)

  • Carnitas plate at Corazon in Brea (Photo by Brad A....

    Carnitas plate at Corazon in Brea (Photo by Brad A. Johnson, Orange County Register/SCNG)

  • Corazon restaurant in Brea (Photo by Brad A. Johnson, Orange...

    Corazon restaurant in Brea (Photo by Brad A. Johnson, Orange County Register/SCNG)

  • Chicken-filled taquitos at Corazon in Brea (Photo by Brad A....

    Chicken-filled taquitos at Corazon in Brea (Photo by Brad A. Johnson, Orange County Register/SCNG)

  • Tres leches at Corazon in Brea (Photo by Brad A....

    Tres leches at Corazon in Brea (Photo by Brad A. Johnson, Orange County Register/SCNG)

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When I initially see the horchata on the menu for $4, I think “That seems like a lot to charge for a glass of rice milk.” But after tasting it, I realize $4 might be a bargain. I find myself debating a second round. It is unimaginably delicious. It’ll be hard to drink horchata anywhere else after this. 

Corazon opened in March on Brea Boulevard in downtown Brea, adjacent to the former Improv. But this isn’t their first go-round. The restaurant originally opened in November 2019 in downtown Fullerton, in a much smaller location with fewer than 20 seats. During the pandemic, they vacated that tiny storefront and relocated here, more than tripling their capacity (albeit still limited per COVID-19 mitigation protocols).

The menu remains mostly the same. The ceviche hasn’t changed a bit. It is as delicious as ever, fish and shrimp classically marinated in lime and jalapeños and finished with olive oil and cilantro. Ceviche doesn’t get much better than this. 

One of the more unique house specialties is the sweet-corn tamale, a large tender mound of sweet, velvety masa that I really want to like, but the whole thing is heavily drenched in a creamy white sauce that tastes shockingly like mayonnaise, which might be more successful if dialed back just a bit. If you’ve ever asked yourself, “How much mayonnaise is too much mayonnaise?” This dish might provide the answer. 

Thankfully, there are no such riddles with the mole enchiladas or the chicken taquitos or the carne asada tacos, all of which are excellent. The pork carnitas and beef barbacoa are also very good. 

The restaurant doesn’t have a full liquor license yet, just wine and beer, so it can’t compete with the high-octane margarita party of Cha Cha’s Latin Kitchen around the corner. But the sangria game here is really, really strong. 

So, too, dessert. After not ordering the horchata, the second biggest mistake you could make would be to skip dessert. At the original location in Fullerton, the pastry chef made pies. But the pies have since given way to parfaits, which are like pies in a jar. Or sometimes cakes in a jar, like tres leches. Even better. 

Corazon

Where: 120 S. Brea Blvd., Brea

When: Lunch and dinner daily, plus weekend brunch

Phone: 714-784-6132 

Online: corazontm.com

COVID Comfort Rating: B (April 2021, Orange Tier)

Temperature checks: No

Masks enforced for customers: Yes

Masks worn by staff: Yes

Gloves worn by staff: Yes

Hand sanitizer available: Yes

Outside dining: Yes

Inside dining: Yes, limited

Dining at the bar: Yes, limited

Tables sanitized: Yes

Chairs sanitized: Yes

Seating properly distanced: Yes, mostly 

Touchless menus: No