Start with the horchata. It will likely be the best horchata you ever drink.
That’s something I never imagined I would write. But the housemade horchata at Corazon in Brea is seriously in a league of its own, splashed with vanilla and a heavy swirl of cinnamon syrup. It’s a work of art.
When I initially see the horchata on the menu for $4, I think “That seems like a lot to charge for a glass of rice milk.” But after tasting it, I realize $4 might be a bargain. I find myself debating a second round. It is unimaginably delicious. It’ll be hard to drink horchata anywhere else after this.
Corazon opened in March on Brea Boulevard in downtown Brea, adjacent to the former Improv. But this isn’t their first go-round. The restaurant originally opened in November 2019 in downtown Fullerton, in a much smaller location with fewer than 20 seats. During the pandemic, they vacated that tiny storefront and relocated here, more than tripling their capacity (albeit still limited per COVID-19 mitigation protocols).
The menu remains mostly the same. The ceviche hasn’t changed a bit. It is as delicious as ever, fish and shrimp classically marinated in lime and jalapeños and finished with olive oil and cilantro. Ceviche doesn’t get much better than this.
One of the more unique house specialties is the sweet-corn tamale, a large tender mound of sweet, velvety masa that I really want to like, but the whole thing is heavily drenched in a creamy white sauce that tastes shockingly like mayonnaise, which might be more successful if dialed back just a bit. If you’ve ever asked yourself, “How much mayonnaise is too much mayonnaise?” This dish might provide the answer.
Thankfully, there are no such riddles with the mole enchiladas or the chicken taquitos or the carne asada tacos, all of which are excellent. The pork carnitas and beef barbacoa are also very good.
The restaurant doesn’t have a full liquor license yet, just wine and beer, so it can’t compete with the high-octane margarita party of Cha Cha’s Latin Kitchen around the corner. But the sangria game here is really, really strong.
So, too, dessert. After not ordering the horchata, the second biggest mistake you could make would be to skip dessert. At the original location in Fullerton, the pastry chef made pies. But the pies have since given way to parfaits, which are like pies in a jar. Or sometimes cakes in a jar, like tres leches. Even better.
Corazon
Where: 120 S. Brea Blvd., Brea
When: Lunch and dinner daily, plus weekend brunch
Phone: 714-784-6132
Online: corazontm.com
COVID Comfort Rating: B (April 2021, Orange Tier)
Temperature checks: No
Masks enforced for customers: Yes
Masks worn by staff: Yes
Gloves worn by staff: Yes
Hand sanitizer available: Yes
Outside dining: Yes
Inside dining: Yes, limited
Dining at the bar: Yes, limited
Tables sanitized: Yes
Chairs sanitized: Yes
Seating properly distanced: Yes, mostly
Touchless menus: No